7 days - botswana
a short flying adventure allows you quick escape into relaxed wilderness
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Days 1 & 2: I start this trip in the Limpopo Valley. I spent glorious years fulfilling the epitome of childhood escapades in this region. We land on the new and impressive Limpopo runway - the air is warm and dry. Driving to the rustic tented camp exposes an ancient world of rolling faraway hills, abundant wildlife and elephant signs everywhere: football sized droppings, wind blown footprints and bark stripped mopane trees. Late afternoon game drives blend into exciting night drives, with nocturnal life being highlighted and captured by a powerful spotlight. Mountain biking is offered as a fun activity.
Days 3 & 4: We take-off early for the heart of the Okavango Delta. My charted flight takes us over the largest salt pans on earth which, when filled with water, become the natural home to thousands of pink flamingos. The flat dry featureless terrain below suddenly transforms into a lush green oasis. The trees are big and graceful. The ground is soft white sand and there are random pans of crystal clear water scattered everywhere. The more you look the more you suddenly see - insects, birds, spotted cats, big animals, small animals and spoor everywhere. An unobtrusive camp rests quietly and peacefully in this abundance.
Days 5 & 6: We fly out of the lush Delta area and land on the Selinda runway where solitary palm trees dominate a flat hazy horizon. The wildlife catalyst is a lazy, twisting Linyanti River snaking its way through a parched dusty landscape. Our base, a welcoming tented camp, is on a small wooded island of tall trees and palms. There is a traditional wild dog den nearby, and cheetah's silently patrol the surrounding golden grassy plains. On a previous trip two young male lion, sleeping in the shade of my aeroplane's belly, delayed our departure for the next destination.
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10 nights - botswana . namibia . zambia
flying, bush and water - the best experience of africa's renowned river systems
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Days 1, 2 & 3: The Okavango Delta is a real coffee table book illusion that springs to life when you are descending through tall trees to land on a hidden bush strip called Hunda. The pictures are a colourful and exciting reality and my chosen camp is part of this real fantasy. We start our 10 day adventure by being slowly poled along winding and unending waterways in a makoro.
This is wind down time and the pace is being set for the rest of our adventure. We all want to encounter 'big game' and during every game drive and walk this is exactly what we enjoy. The resident chef is a passionate cook who knows how to mysteriously present a tasty feast of real home cooked food, just when our hunger is at a peak, after a morning of game activity. Strangely enough I always seem to have an enormous apetite in the bush, not that I'm implying my wife's home cooking isn't just as good.
Days 4 & 5: Our flight to the next private camp is like a short low-level nature documentary. We fly over glittering fingers of sparkling water and I point out wildlife everywhere - shiny hippo backs, lone bull elephants, peaceful Red lechwes, giraffe... We stay at this camp to humbly experience and learn more about elephants. Doug Crowe (An Africanised American) has dedicated his life to a few tame elephants. We spend a morning walking in the wild with these magnificent creatures.
Days 6 & 7: The next destination, Kwando Concession, is like turning a page in our big glossy book; it's a major contrast. We land on an open grassy plain and head for a small camp, which is sheltered on a tree island that dominates an expansive open savannah. On the way we pass several large muddy waterpans that are dotted with water birds. Solitary heavy-duty storks gracefully glide overhead looking for another pan. This area is full of interesting wildlife surprises. I have seen lion eating hippos and the illusive sitatunga shyly venturing out of thick reed banks.
Days 8 & 9: Flying down the Chobe River and over Botswana's Chobe National Park - home to an estimated 45 000 elephant. Just imagine the view! The small town of Kasane looms up ahead on a hill; scattered, shiny tin roofed houses. We land at Kasane to clear Botswana exit formalities and fly over the point where 4 countries (Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe) and two major rivers (Zambezi and Chobe) meet. One of my favourite island lodges is a mini paradise. The hosts are proud that their lodge has been recognised as one of the best lodges in Africa. This is a top birding destination. On my last trip we found skimmer nests on exposed sand banks in the Zambezi River.
Day 10: It is impossible to leave this area without taking a short flight to see the famous Victoria Falls. A few high level turns give an amazing aerial view of the seventh wonder in the world (and a world heritage site), then after landing we transfer to an atmospheric lodge overlooking the mighty Zambezi River. The tumbling waters are the hub of a fast spinning adventure wheel - white water rafting, bungi jumping, casinos, restaurants, lodges, hotels, sunset cruises and international airline connections.
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21 days
nambia . zambia . botswana . mozambique
atlantic to indian ocean - the breadth of southern africa
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Days 1, 2 & 3: This particular flying adventure is my personal favourite because it captures the mood and spirit of a diverse continent. I start this adventure by flying from Windhoek into the NamibRand desert. We glide over craggy mountains and symmetrical red sand dunes to land in a stark dry golden valley. After a few hours, in this fragile desert, you notice that the amazing landscape colours shift and change in a panorama that appears to stretch to infinity. You can hear true silence here, something many of us do not know. Ballooning over sand dunes is a breathtaking experience. The desert sky is clean, clear and pure and at night the stars form a familiar canopy of Greek mythology.
Days 4: Mid-morning sun warms the ancient desert sand; forcing ever-present coastal mists back out to sea. We use this clear window to fly up the coast and appreciate the remnants of a German colonial settlement called Swakopmund. Atmospheric little restaurants serve fresh ocean fish and the locals happily recount desert and sea tales that transport you to a real Wilbur Smith world. Genuine German draught beer is served in most pubs.
Days 5 & 6: We fly into and through a thin layer of mist and head north, pass the impressive solitary Brandberg mountain that has become a Namibian icon and landmark. Our destination is Damaraland; a land renowned for desert rhino, elephant and endemic fauna and flora that have spent millions of years adapting to a minimalistic environment. Our camp is the only reality check of man's modern world. We come into contact with Damara culture by visiting a small village that has remained unchanged for hundreds of years. Prehistoric rock engravings present a visual display of bygone lives.
Days 7 & 8: Sunrise flying gives a completely different aerial dimension. Our destination is a small luxury lodge in the finger-like tropical Caprivi Strip. The desert fades into a special memory, as we explore Teak tree forests that cover ancient rolling Kalahari sand dunes. The lodge is hidden luxury with accommodation units supporting their own private plunge pool and lounge. We are in wild Africa where new roads are being surveyed and cut. Large areas still remain unexplored. This is one of two areas where I can guarantee sightings of the Racket-Tailed roller (what the heck is that, you might ask?).
Day 9: The smoky mist that billows skyward, from a tumbling Victoria Falls, can be seen for more than 20 kilometres. This plume of white mist becomes a beacon, guiding us to an aerial spectacle that has become a world tourist landmark. We circle the Falls at 2 000 feet above ground and then spend the afternoon exploring the area on foot.
Days 10 & 11: The dry Savuti channel terminates it's journey in Botswana's Chobe National Park. We fly down this ancient channel; dodging dead silhouetted Leadwood trees that dominate the horizon. This is my best area for birds of prey - I have witnessed huge concentrations of Steppe and Wahlberg's eagles feeding on swarms of flying ants. This is also a special area for big cats. I have witnessed cheetah successfully hunting impala, leopard catching Whiterumped babblers, and lion clashing with their eternal enemies - hyenas. Our tented camp is next to a pan of water. Sunset heralds the start of a nocturnal orchestra - croaking frogs, territorial owls, thirsty elephant, distant roaring lion and howling jackals. I can isolate and identify every familiar component of this wild choral composition.
Days 12, 13 & 14: Aerial game spotting is at its best when flying low level over the Okavango Delta plains. Squat warthogs look big and tall giraffe seem short. We land on a bumpy runway in Moremi National Park - some of the bumps are buffalo and elephant droppings. I always circle a bush runway to check if any errant creature plans to share the strip with me!
I'll never forget sunset microlighting. Once when I hovered towards the airstrip a cheetah came bounding out. As I quickly elevated my flying height, the cheetah leapt up trying to grab me like it would capture a bird. The cheetah and I played together for about half an hour. When I excitedly ran home to tell my wife, she reprimanded me for being late and ruining our spaghetti supper! You see she is a pasta diva.
Getting back to our safari, our tented camp overlooks a large permanent water lagoon. The area is like a busy airport with storks and herons perpetually flying in and out. Hippos bursting to the surface for more air shatter the peaceful silence.
Days 15 & 16: The flight from Okavango's water wilderness to the flat white Makgadigadi Saltpans is like starting a new chapter in this captivating escapade. We fly a few feet above the pans and the only obstacle in front of us is the earth's flat horizon. Activities revolve around observing habituated wild Brown hyena and suricates (commonly known as meerkats). The camp experience is like a cocktail mixture of Arab style tents in an exotic Bushman habitat.
Days 17, 18, 19 & 20: The flight to a warm Indian Ocean island takes us over a land filled with unending winding river systems. Straight dusty roads link small-scattered settlements surrounded by an erratic patchwork of cultivated fields. An indigo blue ocean fronts long crisp white beaches. Distant dhow boat silhouettes add slow motion to a static beach paradise. These are lazy days filled with suntan lotion, swimming, secluded picnics and starlit beach dinners. An idyllic final chapter to a safari, which has allowed us to experience the pulse and flare of a magnificent sub-continent.
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